Crawlspace vents can cause Moisture Problems
Opening and closing the crawlspace vents and understanding moisture control is one of the most conufusing topics for homeowners. So, what should you do when you need information? Google it! Well I’ve done this I can see how it could get very confusing. There are too many opinions and some are too technical to understand. So we need some simplified tips.
Why is Precision Comfort Systems interested in this? As your Indianapolis area comfort specialists (serving all of Central Indiana) we are expected to control the humidity in our customer’s homes. You need a source that understands moisture science. Here are some important clarifications.
- First and most important… liquid water is different than water vapor. If any part of your home has liquid water problems, you need some help from experts in drainage, plumbing, pumping, water proofing and maybe all of the above. Fix all liquid problems first! Then you can read the rest of this post.
- Next, if you have air conditioning and if any part of your cooling system is in the crawlspace, you have even more reason to understand moisture. If you live in a humid summer climate, you cannot allow humid air to come in contact with your cooled surfaces. This will cause condensation and voila… now your have a liquid water problem.
- Here is the simplest way I know to help you understand and visualize what to do with your crawlspace: TREAT YOUR CRAWLSPACE AS A CONDITIONED BASEMENT. By “conditioned” I mean heated, cooled, dehumidified, insulated and closed off from the outside. Treat this area under your home just as you would treat an extravagant basement entertainment room in a luxury home. Would you open a window to this area on a hot summer day and expect to stay comfortable? No. The outside air is the source of moisture in the summer.
- A legitimate question is: “So why does my crawlspace have vents? I close them in winter and now you suggest I close them in the summer.” The answer is, crawlspace venting is a leftover design from a time with little air conditioning or perhaps a design borrowed from a drier climate. In fact, even in Central Indiana we do have a few summer days that could be considered drying days and then a little fresh air could benefit this area. But most summer days have enough moisture in the air that as soon as it passes into the cool crawlspace, the air temperature decreases, the moisture content is now closer to 100% saturation and much of the masonary and wood surfaces in your crawlspace are cool enough to condense the water vapor to liquid.
- And then you turn on the AC to help comfort your home and your problems increase by creating very cold AC system parts. After a few days of continuous condensation your basement may look and smell like
this…
I could go into more science on specific humidity, dew point, wet bulb temperature, etc., but the above is really all you need to know. Close and seal the vents in your crawlspace walls. Condition the crawlspace area as if it were a short little basement entertainment area. You may need to add a dehumidifier to help out the air conditioner. I will go into this topic in my next post. Check back soon.
DIY test: is heat pump causing a high electric bill?
If you receive a high electric bill in the winter and if you heat your Indianapolis area home with an electric heat pump and if you notice your heat pump runs 24/7, you might presume the heat pump is the problem. The trouble is, you normally have to call your heating contractor to see if the heat pump is working properly. Well here is a do it yourself test to check the heat pump, to see if it is working properly. This test is so easy, you will find yourself checking the heat pump operation every time you pass by. It’s almost as alluring as checking wet paint!
Before we start, I suggest you read an earlier blog (follow link) where I explain that it is normal for your heat pump to run non stop in cold weather. But even though your system is supposed to run often, you should know that a heat pump compressor can fail and the outside unit will still appear that it is working since the outside fan is still running. So how do we know the heat pump is doing its thing?
From the link above, you know a heat pump is two to four times more efficient than your backup electric heat. If the heat pump compressor fails, the backup heat takes over, the heat pump fan never shuts off and 6 weeks later you get a high electric bill, three times what it should be.
Here’s how to test if your heat pump is working. The outside unit is connected to the inside furnace by two copper refrigerant lines. One is the size of your thumb, the other the size of your little finger. In the winter, when the outside unit is running, feel the larger of the two copper lines. It is probably covered by a black foam insulation, so you will need to get under this foam to feel the metal pipe. This line should be very warm to the touch. It will not burn you, but on most winter days above 20 degrees, you will want to pull your finger off pretty quick. This pipe is carrying lots of heat. It was robbed from the outside air and is now being sent to your home.
If the line is not hot:
- Is the outside unit running? Can you get it to run by raising the thermostat? Is your thermostat improperly set to emergency heat? If you cannot get the outdoor heat pump to run… and this is a tough one… it’s broke.
- Is the heat pump in a defrost cycle? (That’s when steam is coming off the unit.) If so, wait until it’s done and test later.
- Do you really have a heat pump? (An air conditioner is not supposed to run in the winter.) Call Precision Comfort Systems and let’s get your electric bills cut in half!
If none of the above apply and the copper line is not hot, your heat pump is probably not working. The indoor electric furnace has taken over and this is costing you two to three times what you should be paying. Call Precision Comfort Systems now and we will find out exactly what is wrong.
Repeating from my last blog (but it is very important and worth a second post):
Some nasty advice is given, even among heating contractors who do not know any better, that you can use the emergency heat setting on your thermostat and “give the heat pump a break when the weather gets cold”. Well take it from me. This switch named “em. ht.” is misnamed. It has nothing to do with getting extra heating capacity or being a cold day setting. It should be named, “DOUBLE OR TRIPLE MY BILLS!” When you switch to “em. ht.”, you turn off your heat pump and now the more expensive backup furnace (toaster coils) are heating your home at two to three times the cost. Don’t do this! Allow the heat pump to run and love it. New heat pumps are very efficient and they are designed to run non stop when you need it most so your heating bill is normal. Even older heat pumps are much better than the electric furnace.
If your heat pump is too old, then its ability to move heat may be less than what it should be. Call Precision Comfort Systems, your Central Indiana heat pump specialists, to evaluate your current heat pump. We can tune it up or eventually replace it so you are getting the most from the current heat pump technology.
Time to close crawl space vents
When I drive through neighborhoods in the winter, I cannot help but notice how many homes still have their crawl space vents open. This is a huge mistake in terms of trying to keep your home comfortable and your energy bills low. Here’s the scoop.
Home foundations are typically a basement, concrete slab or a crawl space. Of these, normally the crawl space is the only one with vents to the outside. Venting the crawl space is no longer a good idea in our energy efficient homes with heating and air conditioning ducts in the crawl space. These spaces under the home should be considered a “conditioned space” which means they are heated in the winter and “conditioned” in the summer. This post deals primarily with winter heating but here is another post about summer.
Think of your crawl space as a short basement. It should be insulated around the perimeter on the inside of the crawl space walls. Now this space will be a warm space in the winter. Many homes with a crawl space will have the heating ducts in this area and these ducts perform best when they are in a warm space in the winter. Crawl space vents need to be closed, sealed and insulated to keep the cold winter air out of this area. Note that simply closing the louvers from the outside will seldom seal this opening properly. In addition to closing the louvers, you should go into the crawl space and seal the opening with a tight fitting plug and then add insulation.
Allowing cold air into an otherwise conditioned space can increase energy costs, cause the heated air in the ducts to be cooled, create cold floors and even add to the dryness of your home. If you close your crawl space vents and you are still having comfort issues, call Precision Comfort Systems. We are the home comfort experts in Noblesville, Westfield, Carmel and all other Indianapolis area communities. We discover the real reasons you are not comfortable!
What should you do with these vents in the summer? Check back in May and I will tell you the truth about sealing up these vents forever. Wouldn’t that be great to eliminate the twice per year chore of going into the crawl space?
Furnace Troubleshooting Tips
Read these furnace troubleshooting tips to learn how you can save on repair bills. A furnace rarely goes through its lifetime without needing some repairs. What most people don’t know is that they can solve some of their own furnace problems. We have listed a few furnace troubleshooting tips to help you save on your repair bills.
Furnace Troubleshooting Tips:
Tip 1: Check Your Filter
A dirty air filter is the most common furnace problem we see. A dirty filter causes your furnace to overheat in the winter. (It can also cause an air conditioner freeze-up in the summer.) Once your furnace overheats, it can no longer function and could even cause a safety device to turn the furnace off. Check your furnace filter once per month and change as needed.
Tip 2: Look for the arrow on your filter
Most air filters will display an arrow on the outside edge to show you the proper airflow direction. Your airflow is going through the ducts, through the filter and then into the furnace. Be sure to install the filter in the proper direction.
Tip 3: Pre-season furnace check
Test your furnace before the heating season begins. Your thermostat switch should be in the heat position. On a cool day, turn up the heat setting a few degrees greater than the room temperature. Wait for several minutes to be sure the fan starts and after a few more minutes the airflow should be warm. If you have an electric heat pump, walk outside to be sure the outside unit is operating.
If you are experiencing any problems with your furnace, you must call a professional. Precision Comfort Systems provides repair services for all types and brands of furnaces, heat pumps and air conditioners. Contact us today for more questions about your furnace.
You may qualify for a geothermal tax credit!
Here is some news on how homeowners could qualify for a geothermal tax credit!
The Energy Improvement and Extension Act of 2008 (H.R. 1424) offers…
- A one-time tax credit of 30% of the total investment for homeowners who install residential ground loop or ground water geothermal heat pumps
- Qualifying systems must meet or exceed EnergyStar requirements and be installed after December 31, 2007.
- Indianapolis geothermal system owners can file for the credit by completing the Renewable Energy Credits subsection on their federal tax return forms.
- Geothermal tax credits are available through December 2016.
Please consult your tax professional for details on the proceedure and your eligibility.
To learn more about additional incentives that may be available, visit http://www.dsireusa.org/
